Firenock has 3 main functions of circuits; Hunting (H), Target (T), and Intermittent(I). Hunting will continuously light till battery runs out or you can manually switch it off; target will stay lit around 17 seconds once you shot the arrow and then switch off automatically by itself to allow shooter to make the next shot; while Intermittent will stay lit for 6 seconds then blink till battery runs out or when you manually switch it off.
Below is a comparison table to show the differencesbetween Firenock G series and other brand lighted nock:
Firenock lighted nock
Other brands of lighted nocks
Accidental lighting and accidental deactivation
No (Firenock activates by change in speed, controls by fuzzy logic and time delay system, thus Firenock will stay lit even if the game is jumping and running violently)
Yes (for those with physical switch; pulling out and pushing in)
Yes (for magnetic system it will be affected by magnetic field / X- ray scanner)
Need actuator to turn on Light
No (Firenock activates by change in speed)
Yes (magnetic system needs a magnet)
Working temperature range
Hunting circuit: -55 F to 180 F
Target circuit: 32 F and 140 F
Influence by magnetic field
(Firenock activates by change in speed)
(Magnetic system will be affected by magnetic field or X-ray scanner)
Lasts for years and there is a lifetime refresh warranty and 30 days no questions asked service.
maybe good for one season or less
Yes (Replacement nock pack available)
Yes (Battery pack available)
Choice of Nock Styles
(A, D, D2, E, F, G, J, M, S, V, Q, Y for most arrows on the market)
Less than 4 styles
Yes (battery pack available)
Choice of nock colors
Up to 9 colors (red, pink, orange, yellow, green, blue, clear, smoke, wood)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of LED colors
Up to 6 colors (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, white)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of battery
BR (shelf life ~ 1 year)
BL (shelf life ~ 3 years)
BU (shelf life ~ 7 years)
BX (shelf life ~ 3 months)
Reliable to shoot into hard objects
(With extreme shot end cap installed)
Different functions of Circuits
3 (Hunting, Target, Intermittent)
Nock and circuit interchangeability
Yes (e.g. S circuit can interchange with 9 colors of nock and S nock can interchange with 3 functions of circuit)
Hunting circuit: up to 42 days at 65 °F
Spin balanced, Rattle proof
Yes (with the extreme shock end cap installed)
Up to 120 yards
Weather proof, blood proof
Yes (gold plated connector and epoxy coated circuit)
a. Wait 4-8 seconds after activation before trying to deactivate the system.
b. Lift the arrow (nock-end down) no less than 8 inches (20 cm) above a semi-hard flat surface.
c. Drop the arrow (nock-end down) and allow the nock to hit the surface via gravitational force.
d. Upon impact, the Firenock will deactivate automatically.
e. If the nock does not deactivate, repeat Steps (b-c) and raise the distance in 2-inch (5 cm) increments until the unit deactivates.
Note: A pine block, the top of your boots, or the inside floor of your truck are examples of semi-hard surfaces. If the Firenock does not shut off after a free-fall distance that is as high as 12" (30 cm), please return your Firenock for warranty replacement.
To install the battery, DO NOT use your finger nail to force the cross lock wire into the neck of the battery as injuries may occur while doing this. After inserting the battery into the pin connector and with the cross loop just over the neck, ROTATE the battery counterclockwise to let the cross lock wire go smoothly into the battery neck. Then, flip the "C" lock (wire end) over the battery and the battery installation is completed. Note: the "C" lock should go around the battery slightly IN FRONT of the O-ring grove located near the end of the battery. To remove the battery, flip up the "C" lock wire to unlock and then rotate the battery clockwise. The cross lock wire will open wide and the battery can be easily removed.
The following Video will show you how to install the battery onto a Firenock lighted nock with dual loop battery connector.
The best way to tell if the battery is still good is to use a battery tester. A volt meter only shows the battery voltage output, it does not show the remaining power of the battery. For Firenock batteries, even when they are 90% drained, the volt meter may show that it is 3.0v. We recommend GB Instruments™ GBT-500A Battery Tester which can be purchased from www.amazon.com and at most hardware stores (ACE Hardware, Menards) for about US$10.00. To test a Firenock battery with the battery tester, set the dial to "LITHIUM 3V", use the red probe (positive) to the shell of the battery and the black probe (negative) to the pin of the battery.
BR battery has only 8-12 months shelf life. It is meant for one season of use, therefore it is not suggested to store and reuse the battery. After one season, please remove the BR battery, otherwise the BR battery may leak and ruin the lighted nock system.
BL and BU batteries have 36 months and 84 months of shelf life respectively. Firenock lighted nocks, like all electronic devices, will drain a small amount of power (slow drain) when the battery is installed, and thus the battery will be drained out within 9 to 12 months if not removed. Therefore when the Firenock lighted nock is not going to be used for 3 months, you should remove the battery from the circuit and store the battery in its original battery case and in a cool place (e.g. basement).
The Target (T) Firenock lighted nock uses the same "G switch" technology as in the Hunting Firenock lighted nock, but the Target Firenock will automatically deactivate itself after 15 to 17 seconds after the shot instead of staying continuously lit. It is the only lighted nock which is approved by ASA and IPO for Target shooting. The 17 seconds lit allows you to see the arrow flight and its location on the target, but it will not influence your next shot. You can also use Target lighted nocks as practice nocks as you can refine your setting after seeing the flight and then keep on practicing. Target lighted nocks are the same weight as Hunting / Intermittent lighted nocks, so you do not need to retune your bow while using hunting or target lighted nocks.
The Target Firenock lighted nock has a high temperature tolerance, but it is not as good as the Hunting Firenock lighted nock in low temperatures. Target lighted nocks will work reliably between 32°F and 140°F. If the temperature is lower than 32°F, the duration of light may not be 17 seconds as low temperatures will drop the battery power/voltage output which may affect the digital timer count .
Firenock lighted nocks are water resistance as Firenock utilizes 24K gold plated connectors and the system is UV cure epoxy coated. This makes Firenock suitable for bow-fishing applications and for brackish and salt water bow fishing. An optional extreme waterproof accessory is available and will allow Firenock lighted nock to work in saltwater for weeks. Firenock offers 2 bow-fishing adapters to suit what most fishermen need.
Standard 5/16" Fiberglass arrow adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on 5/16" solid fiberglass bow-fishing arrows.
Carbon Arrow Internal adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on Carbon bow-fishing arrows with an internal diameter of ~0.244" - 0.246 and 1.0" inch of space. The adapter also has a pre-tapped hole to accept the slide stop.
As of end of 2015, the following 2 states (Idaho, Montana) do not allow to the use of lighted nock to harvest game. Please check the latest updated regulation(s) for each state.
2010 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in North Dakota as of 2010.
2012 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Wyoming as of 2012.
2013 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Washington as of 2013.
2014 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Colorado as of 2015.
2015 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Oregon as of late 2015.
Firenock lighted nock system uses Firenock brand nocks for extreme performance and accuracy. The Firenock nock can self concentric itself once installed and it has the best nock throat design. Some styles of Firenock nocks are marked to indicate which nock style it is and which cavity it is made to ensure high quality and ease of identification (e.g. Y1 means Y mold whereas 1 means mold cavity 1). According to our data, Firenock nocks can achieve 1 to 2 ft/sec higher speed than most other manufacturer nocks.
Unlike any other lighted nock, you can easily field change the polycarbonate nock, circuit, and battery on Firenock. It is recommended to change the polycarbonate every 3 years or when it has passed through an animal as animal bone may cause premature breakage to nock particularly under low temperature (i.e. under 4° F). Being a clear translucent nock, it is easy for UV light to pass through the polycarbonate nock of Firenock and degrade the plastic.
There are currently up to 9 nock colors and up to 6 LED circuit colors, thus a combination of 54 color of light can be produced for Firenock lighted nock. This is achieved as Firenock is nock changeable, thus different LED circuit colors can fit with different nock colors to produce different colors of light. Below is a table showing current available nock color, circuit LED colors and the combination of (light) which can be produced.
To tell what circuit function it is, there is a letter (H/T/I) on one side of the circuit; H = Hunting, T = Target, I = Intermittent. If there is no letter on the circuit, the easiest way is to activate it.
Firenock offers up to 54 colors of lighted nocks to suit almost all lighting conditions. In most cases, red nock on a red LED is the best. This choice is also found on cars as all tail lights are red in color. For color blindness (red and green color blind person), experience has shown that green / yellow nock on a yellow LED generally works very well. For spring turkey hunting, green nock on a green LED is good as turkeys are found on a green background. Blue nock on a blue LED looks wonderful under indoor fluorescent lighting or outdoor hunting in the dark during moonless nights.
There are 3 sizes of circuit to fit Firenock lighted nocks. They are different sizes in order to fit different diameters of arrow shafts.
Below is a video to show the interchangeability of the 2 main sizes of Firenock circuit.
By adding Firenock to your arrow, there should be no noticeable effect to the arrow for most archers. On occasion, when the setup is already at the limit of what can be done with that particular setup, adding an extra 10 to 15 grain can cause issues. Under this condition, the following nock tuning procedure should bring your bow back to where it was.
When you convert from a regular nock to the Firenock (either lighted nock or practice nock), you may run into a few minor tuning situations; which are listed below. Your specific results could vary depending on the setup, release method, and type of arrow rest. All information provided below is based on a right-handed shooter, using a mechanical release and a drop-away arrow rest.
Porpoising: Since we are adding weight (approximately 15 additional grain) to the back end of the shaft, the nock will tend to drop as it leaves the bow string. If you are using a shoot through type of arrow rest (Whisker Biscuit, Hostage Pro or NAP 360) this may not be noticeable. If you are using the standard drop-away arrow rest, you may get either a tail up or tail down tear when paper tuning your bow since the arrow will be hitting the bow shelf or rest as it passes by. This will also be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target; the nock will porpoise all the way to the target. A few solutions include
Adjusting the timing of your rest: As long as you have enough clearance, try to adjust the timing of your drop-away to have it start dropping towards the back third of your arrow. Arrow rests that connect to the cable guard slide or limb (Vapor Trail Limb Driver) work well to correct this situation.
Move D-loop: Another possible solution would be to move your d-loop or nocking point up the string. Try moving in increments of 1/32 of an inch until the situation is corrected.
Stiff Shaft: Any time weight is added to the back end of the arrow, the arrow tends to react as if it is stiffer than normal. This will be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard range. The arrow will tend to hit to the left when compared to arrows without weight in the back end of the shaft. This is more apparent when shooting broad heads. The arrow may also fishtail all the way to the target. When paper tuning, you may get a tail right tear. A few solutions include:
Move arrow rest: The first step should be to move the arrow rest out slightly to try and correct the stiff shaft effect. If that does not work, try the following additional solutions.
Adding weight to the point: If you are using 100 grain tips, try 125 grain tips.
Longer arrow: Try the same arrow only 1/2 to 1 inch longer. The additional length will make the arrow more flexible, or less stiff.
Combination: It is possible to have a combination of the above effects. This would be noticeable by witnessing the nock going in a cork-screw fashion when shooting at the 30 yard target. Also, you may get a diagonal tear when paper tuning. Follow the above steps concentrating on the porpoising effect first. Then move to correct the left and right effect.
In some cases when you shoot Firenock with an older bow with a worn-in string, the deformed string will torque the Firenock nock when in full pull and release. A new string or redoing the serving (i.e. perfectly round) should solve the problem. Please make sure the size of the serving is correct.
There are 4 main reasons that can cause this issue:
The roundness of the string: If the serving on the string is old and it is worn-in, the shape of the serving is no longer round. This would form an uneven pressure to the nock and thus cause it to crack the nock as it is being torqued when shot. If the serving is not even, this will also cause this to happen.
The size of the string: Firenock nock throat is designed to fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.120"/3.05mm. Some bow manufacturer bow strings serving can be as big as 0.135"/3.429 mm which is too big to fit the Firenock nock. If the string serving is bigger than 0.125"/3.175mm, the nock can crack.
The nock is over 3 years old and the polycarbonate is beginning to degrade.
The nock has been shot through an animal and has score mark(s) on it which can induce premature failure.
CAUTION: Using Firenock on string serving that is bigger than what is recommended may cause the nock to crack, dry fire, and injury may occur.
If the serving on the string is larger than the usual 0.12" (3.05mm), the nock will grab on the string tighter than normal. For a light weight arrow and a light weight tip, this situation can be obvious. A smaller size serving or a new string with a smaller size serving should solve this problem. It is recommended to use serving between 0.110" to 0.115" for Firenock styles (A, E, G, S, and V).
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing needs to be removed in order to install Firenock. Please call us for more details.
Firenock "E" style nocks will fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter arrows have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280", and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. To install Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be cut and removed as the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue. Please note forcing it out is found to be difficult, and heating the shaft will cause separation of the aluminum from the carbon layer. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ended is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that you may need to shave off some ridges on the nock in order to fit the shaft perfectly.
The uni-bushing must be removed in order to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. With minor modification, the Firenock "S" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade to shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" and this would allow Firenock S to fit the arrow shaft of ID 0.240".
The uni-bushing must be removed before installing Firenock E nock. Firenock 'E' style nock can fit the following shafts:.
Epic/Excel - inner diameter of ~0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 - inner diameter of ~0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 - inner diameter of ~0.220" or 5.56mm => Need to shave off half / all ridges to fit
The uni-bushing must be removed before installing Firenock S style nock. If it is too loose, apply a small amount of super glue to the inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
The uni-bushing must be removed to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. Cut away uni-bushing and the arrow shaft should fit Firenock A style nock. If it is too loose, brush a small amount of super glue to inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
There are 2 ways to remove the UNI-bushing (Please note that you may damage your arrow).
1) Mechanically: After removing the nock, use a wood thread screw so it can bite into the uni-bushing to give a strong hold. Use the largest vise grip you have and clamp tight at the head of the screw. Put the vise grip sideway on a block of wood so it lays flat; the arrow should be pointing towards sky. Lift the arrow with one hand so it is about half an inch from the wood, use a hammer to hit as close to the screw on the vise grip as possible. The strike force will assert direct downward force and pop the uni-bushing out with the screw in it..
2) Thermally: After removing the nock, try to locate a nail that barely fit inside the hole of uni-bushing. Heat the nail with open flame. The heat energy will transfer from the nail to the uni-bushing, and soften the glue between the uni-bushing and the shaft which this allow the uni-bushing to be extracted from the shaft without causing damage to the shaft.
Firenock "S" style is designed to fit any archery projectile that has an ID of 0.242" to 0.246" and thus will fit Carbon Impact shafts (ID 0.242"). If it is very tight to fit, you can smudge some bow wax on the nock as lubricant to make the installation easier. For those who prefer finger tight installation, you can slightly shave off 2 or more ridges to your desired tightness.
Firenock C and F are both double O-ring fit design. The package of C/F Firenock for crossbow comes with 4 sizes of O-rings. By following the O-ring installation chart in the installation manual, you can fit a Firenock C/F nock into nearly every standard crossbow bolt that is listed on back of the package. From 8/2016, C style nock was discontinued and replaced by M nock.
If there is a gap between the nock and the bolt end, your Firenock lighted nock is not installed properly and the nock may crack upon impact as there is no full contact surface to transfer the force evenly. Please install the nock slowly into the bolt using a push and rotate method. In case you are using slim crossbow bolts like Carbon Express crossbow bolts, Firenock "Y" style is what you should use.
Firenock "Y" nock tube diameter is 0.273" and is 0.282" with ridges. With ridges, it will fit the Carbon Express crossbow bolts and Parker Red Hot nicely (if you have the old bolts, you may need to drill out the original nock). In 2010, many Carbon Express bolts and Red Hot bolts have their nock pressed in instead of glued in. The actual diameter of the inside of the current non-glue bolt can be as small as 0.2815", thus it is advised to add a tiny bit of super gel at the base of the nock to ensure the nock will not turn or pop out during normal operation, and you can easily break that glue to remove the nock if needed.
With all 8 ridges shaved off, the Y nock will also fit the Crossfire bolts made by Vapor AKA Gold Tip Laser II Kinetics and AKA Gold Tip Laser IV which is 0.273". To make the Y nock sit totally flush with the bolt, you need to counter sink 1/32" to allow the wedged nock to sink perfectly into the shaft.
For C, F, and M style lighted nock, using the wrong size O-ring could cause this problem as the over-sized O-ring will pinch the circuit down and disengage the circuit from the clip and lock system. Installing the right size O-ring will solve the problem.
If extreme shock end cap is not installed and you shoot your arrow into a hard target like Spiderweb and your arrow speed is 400fps, the circuit will disengage from the nock and fly forward.
Below is the procedure written by Harold Webster.
It appears that more and more folks are purchasing lighted nocks for their archery projectile. No matter which lighted nock that you wish to use, you must remove every single bit of the glue or the nock will not insert properly. Procedure to remove the plastic nocks from 2219 aluminum projectile:
(1) Install a field tip to block the projectile front hole.
(2) Grasp the orange/black nock with a pair of pliers.
(3) Gently heat around the shaft at the end of the nock with a propane torch or on open flame stove.
(4) When the glue just begins to melt (most of the time), the pressure inside the arrow shaft will begin to slightly push the nock out.
(5) Gently, pull and twist the nock out with the pliers.
That was the easy part. The hard part is removing all the residual melted glue inside of the shaft. All brands of lighted nocks fit very tight inside of the arrow shaft and it is absolutely mandatory that all of the residual melted glue inside of the shaft be completely removed. To remove the residual glue, I have tried scraping, bore brushes mounted in a drill and rat-tail files; none of these methods work and you run a risk of damaging the inside of your shaft.
To absolutely remove all of the residual glue, you will need two drill bits: a 7.75 mm and a 7.8 mm and a .30 cal. bore brush.
(1) Once the nock is removed, chuck the 7.75 mm drill bit; drill in and out very slowly.
(2) Chuck the 7.8 mm drill bit; drill in and out very-very slowly. The 7.8 mm bit is the exact size of the ID of 2219 archery projectile. So, go slow and carefully.
(3) Chuck the .30 cal bore brush; drill in and out to remove any powdered glue.
For your information, we now suggest our customer to purchase their crossbow arrows without the nocks installed. This eliminates the entire nock removal issue.
In late September 2010 Firenock was informed by customers that some Barnett crossbows may not work well with Firenocks due to the ADF. After discussion with Barnett, an extensive test was done by Barnett and the following were the outcomes. The good news was that all new Barnett bows will work with all 3 Firenock styles after the revision in the last quarter of 2010.
Firenock, LLC is located in Henry, IL, USA. Firenock lighted nocks are designed, packaged, and assembled in the USA and its main components are made in the United States. Furthermore, American made components are the main cost of production and they represent over 55% of what you paid for a pack of Firenock G3h-R for an example. FYI, the G-switch is custom-made in New Jersey while pin connector etc are made in California, New York, Texas, Maryland, and Illinois.
Firenock lighted nock is not just a simple wire with an LED attached, a fishing float light in a nock, or some custom integrated circuit glued into a stock nock.
To make "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock", we chose the best polycarbonate, use molding steel from Germany, and the highest-quality resin force-injection to order to make firenock having the best light transmission and translucent properties.
For the brain and soul of Firenock, it has a 2-layer circuit board with a micro chip processor to achieve accurate activation and to prevent accidental turn on and off. We also utilized 24K gold plated connectors to ensure durability and reliability.
Next, inside Firenock, there is a custom made acceleration switch to make Firenock activates without magnet or visible physical switch. thus Firenock is a closed system and there is no physical thing which may touch or affect your system / accuracy.
We also custom made our own battery. These batteries are epoxy-sealed battery and has a shelf life up to 13 months when the battery is stored at 30° F. The battery has specially formulated chemistry in order to work from -17° F to 160° F.
Firenock plain nock alone required at least 160 engineering hours and 10 molds to perfect. We use a five-piece mold instead of a three-piece mold to make the two clips, the lock hole and to give a diamond pattern to the ridges. The prong part of the mold is polished in order to give Firenock the cleanest release possible. There are also mold mark and cavity numbers on each nock for quality control. With this specification, Firenock plain nock can have virtually no variance after sorted by their cavity numbers.
The above mentioned may sound very scientific and technical, but without these detail it is not possible to achieve perfection. Bringing you "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock" is not an easy thing and it's definitely not an inexpensive venture. Firenocks are simple to use and reliable because we put so much effort in them and that is how we ensure that the Firenock that you purchased will work as described.
The Firenock G-switch found in our lighted nock is the smallest acceleration switch ever built commercially. The size of the switch is only 2 mm in diameter and 6 mm long. To make the G-switch this small and reliable, custom tooling is required and it is made in USA. To make a switch that can handle no less than 12,000,000 cycles of activation ,up to 1,500G in the canister and internally gold coated, it is easy to understand why Firenock lighted nocks are more expensive but more reliable than other brands of nocks.
3 battery models are offered to fit different hunting conditions especially temperature and to give different brightness. In general, BR gives the brightest light, but it has a shelf life of 9 months, BL is almost all round and it has 2 years shelf life. BU is for back up purpose as it has a shelf life of 7 years, but it gives relatively less brightness and it is more expensive than BR and BL. Please visit our web-store for more details.
Three tiny battery pin O-rings come standard with all Firenock battery packs. It is important for insulation and shock absorption. If you lost your O-rings, they are available on our web-store (product code is OB).
For old Firenock MOSFET based fuzzy logic chip-set and old standard battery, what you have observed can happen. It is because as the battery ran down to about 90%, the 3 stage fuzzy logic "sort of " shut off due to lack of power, but at this stage, it also allows the battery to air charge without draining it. When the sun goes down, the rapid drop of temperature may be enough to give the logic system enough energy to restart the system. The present or after 2009 Firenock are IC driven, so it will not have this drain off issue and will stay lit continuously.
When a Firenock battery is installed into a Firenock lighted nock system, some energy will be used. In general, no matter what type of Firenock battery you use, the battery is only good for about one year if keep installed on the circuit. Thus it is recommended to remove the battery after each hunting season and put it back in the case for reuse (except for BR as it has around 9 months shelf life).
For Firenock manufactured before 2011, the Firenock core system is a set of Motorola fuzzy logic chip sets. If the battery was installed in the nock system, the high power X-rays used in airports to scan luggage can cause the system to get confused or damaged. To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when traveling by air.
In the situation that you forgot to remove the battery during air travel, remove the battery as soon as possible after the flight. Let the nock sit still without the battery for a few minutes, reinstall the battery, and test the system no less than 3 times to make sure all is working properly. If the nock still turns on by itself after the reset, the logic circuits are damaged and need to be replaced. If the nock was purchased within 30 days, exchange will still be valid. More than 30 days, you can use our refresh service and get a new set of Firenocks at a discounted price.
Beginning in 2011, the Firenock utilized IC system instead of the MOSDET chip set, thus it is no longer critical to remove the battery before a flight. It is, however, a good practice to check your Firenocks after a flight as baggage handling may accidentally switch them on.
For 2009 or later Firenock lighted nock, the circuits are UV cure epoxy coated for waterproofing, however if the Firenock lighted nock is continuously submerged in water without the Bow-Fishing Adapter, its runtime will drop as water is discharging the battery.
Firenocks are designed to fit perfectly to specific shafts. If your Firenock does not fit your shaft, you may have the wrong style nock for your shaft.
If the nock got stuck, the easiest way is to remove it using a pair of pliers. There is a high probability that your nock will be damaged. If the nock is damaged, please replace the nock. A small amount of bow string wax or vegetable oil can be applied to the nock before installing your nock when it is difficult to insert the nock into the arrow.
Like all electronics, poor battery connection is the number one cause of failure. Please make sure that the first cross-lock of the battery wire connector is seated tightly at the neck groove of the battery (refer to the diagram in the installation manual on the installation page for more details). Also make sure the cross-lock battery wire connector is not touching the center battery pin. If it has been touching for an extended period of time, the battery may have already been shorted out and a new battery is required.
If the nock is within the warranty period, please call us for advice or send it back for evaluation.
Under extreme temperature or humidity, a Firenock may require 8 seconds for the system to reset before it can be deactivated. Furthermore, Firenocks have a built-in motion sensor for ultimate shut-off protection (i.e. the motion sensor will reset the digital timer to prevent accidental turn off or on).
If the battery power is too low, this will also cause the Firenock failed to shut off. A new battery will solve the problem.
If the above cannot solve the problem, please call us for assistance. For target circuit, if it does not shut off by itself 20 seconds after activation, please call us for assistance.
There are several reasons why a rattling sound is heard: Firenock manufactured after 2009: There may be a 0.15mm gap between the circuit and the nock. 0.02mm has been added to the circuit to make sure that there will be no space for the circuit to rattle. Firenock manufactured before 2009:
it may be caused by one of the followings:
1) There may be a 0.15 mm gap between some older Firenock LED and the polycarbonate nock. Apply a thin layer of Vaseline or silicon gel on the LED and re-insert it back in the polycarbonate nock. The gel should take up the space and stop the rattling.
2) After shooting into a hard object, the circuit board clip and lock may expand the holes on the sides on the polycarbonate nock. Nock locking holes can be damaged and this will allow the circuit board room to move inside of the nock. Replacing the polycarbonate nock should solve the issue.
3) Some Firenocks come with several sizes of O-rings. Installing the incorrect O-rings will allow the battery to knock against the inner wall of the arrow shaft.
Firenock style "A" gives the tightest fit among the styles of Firenocks. It is due to the small size of the 0.202" arrow size. Without being as tight as possible, there will be not enough pressure to hold the nock properly. In order to install Firenock "A" style successfully, lubricating the nock is required.
Due to the tight fit of Firenock A, please jiggle the nock back-and-forth in order to remove the nock from the arrow. Twisting the nock out from the shaft is not suggested as the nock may be damaged.
For discontinued Firenock with dual loop battery connector, it may be caused by bad connection due to:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the shell of the battery during installation - clean the battery.
2) The "C" lock at the end of the battery connector is bent open, leaving it too loose - reinstall the battery.
3) The battery Pin O-ring is not installed and the battery body is making contact with the pin connector on impact - replace the battery and battery O-ring.
For Firenock with EZ Coil battery connector, it may be caused by bad connection due to:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the body of the battery during installation - clean the battery.
2) The battery was turned close-wise and the battery wire connector is bent and make connection with the pin connector on impact - please call us for assistance.
3) The battery end cap was not installed properly and the battery was dislodged from the circuit.
If your problem still cannot be solved after reading the above, please call Firenock for assistance.
When you install Firenock in an archery projectile that contains a weight tube, it is suggested to cut the weight tube to the length equal to the space between the base of the nock (without the circuit) and the insert. For Firenock C, E, F, S, V and Y styles, the weight tube needs to cover and to be over the circuit of the Firenock lighted nock system. This approach allows the weight tube to touch the nock and ride over the Firenock circuit and battery. When you cuts the weight tube to make room for the Firenock circuit and O-ring, the room which allows for the weight tube to move will actually damage the Firenock circuit. This is because when the projectile hits the target, the forward motion and impact may cause the weight tube to move backward and forward. This hammer-like action can permanently damage the Firenock circuit.
For Firenock style A, since there is technically no room between the circuit and inside diameter of the nock, a weight tube is not recommended without the installation of an Extreme Shock Battery End Cap [XA].
The Extreme Shock Battery End Cap acts as a protector for the circuit from the impact of the weight tube upon impact. Therefore, there is no issue when using a weight tube with any Firenock lighted nock system when an Extreme Shock Battery End Cap is installed.
When your Firenock polycarbonate nock cracks, it is usually due to:
There are tiny bubbles in the nock which create a weak spot in the nock. If this is the case, please send back the nock (just the polycarbonate nock) and a new set will be sent to you.
Some bow strings have very big serving, which is bigger than 0.12"/3.05 mm vs the norm 0.11"(2.8mm). FYI, Firenock nock throat is exactly 0.110"-0.115""(2.800 mm). When serving diameter exceeds 0.12"/0.305 mm, the nock may crack. You can resolve this issue by changing the serving on the string to a smaller one or to use a bow string with a smaller serving. If both methods above are not preferred and if your Firenock is purchased within 30 days, please return your Firenock to where you purchased for a full refund.
Some older bow strings may be uneven; those bumps and grooves will mar the inside of Firenock polycarbonate nock. This mar on the nock will cause the nock to crack (i.e. nock prong may break off when shot from a bow). The only solution to this issue is using a new serving or a high quality string that does not have the above issue. HogWire, Fury X, Winners Choice are samples of good quality brand bow strings .
The polycarbonate nock is over 3 years old and it has degraded to the point that it could no longer hold any strength.
The nock has been shot through animal and it may been scored, thus it can be cracked easily under pressure.
If your arrow speed is over 280 fps and your Firenock utilizes the discontinued dual loop battery connector system, you need to install extreme shock end cap. Otherwise the impact will break the nock and disengage the circuit.
For Firenock with EZ Coil battery connector, extreme shock end cap must be installed.
If your have the EZ Coil type Firenock circuit, you must have extreme shock end cap installed. In many cases, if your end cap was not glued properly and it moved more than 2mm forward; this will allow the battery to disengage form the circuit and the light will shut off on impact. The easiest way to test if the extreme shock end cap was installed properly or not is to use the end cap installation tool to check if it can be threaded onto the installed end cap and be flushed with the end of the shaft. If it does not, the end cap is not installed properly and should be removed and reinstalled.
It may be due to:
1. There is back pressure in the arrow shaft. Please remove the field point or broadhead to release the pressure.
2. There is glue residue inside the shaft. Please clean the shaft and reinstall the end cap.
Extreme shock end cap MUST be installed for Firenock system to function correctly. For discontinued Firenock with dual loop battery connector, extreme shock battery end cap is needed if you are shooting above 280 fps.
There is a high possibility that the end cap is not installed properly inside the arrow shaft. Please make sure the end cap is not dislocated. If it is dislocated, please reinstall the end cap. While doing re-installation, please clean the shaft and use super glue gel such as Firenock AG0GEL. After installation of the end cap, please wait for 12 hrs to allow the glue to dry. If you do not want to wait, please cover the battery and connectors with tape to prevent glue vapor depositing on circuit and battery.
The answer is yes, Firenock S style lighted nocks can be used, but it will take some work as the FOB has a lip that goes right between the Nock neck and the shaft which causes FOB to not be able to be used with most lighted nocks. Below is the procedure:
Shave off a tiny edge from the back of the shaft! A pencil sharpener will do the job. This is to create a groove between the nock and the shaft. After sharpening, it is recommended to use Firenock APS to square the end.
Drill the FOB lip hole with a 9/16 drill bit. If possible use a drill press to remove as little amount as possible as you are only trying to make a TINY LIP for the FOB to ride onto. This would allow 0.055-0.065" of material on the lip of the FOB.
Install the Firenock into the arrow. Slide the modified FOB form the back over the nock. It will go over the Firenock and the new TINY LIP will now rest over that groove between the nock and the shaft. When shot into an animal, the FOB will move backwards and over the Firenock lighted nock without needing to pop out. So the Firenock lighted nock will not be destroyed when the FOB pops out. This works quite well for those who would like to use FOB with a Firenock lighted nock.
PSE Tac nocks are glued in for a very specific reason, it is due to the fact that the shaft is made by weaving and it can give in many ways and they can vary among the shafts. If the nock is not glued in (like Firenock D) and when the nock is pressed from shooting, the diameter of the shaft can expand and the nock can be forced into the shaft (see photo below). In the case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed due to the above mentioned issue. This situation is observed not only for Firenock D but also for factory black nocks that are not glued in; especially for the Tac shafts made in 2010. Many who have experienced this issue were told to glue the nock in order to solve the problem. The gluing of the nock, however, is not a good answer as a lighted nock cannot be installed or replaced. To address this issue, installing Bull Dog nock Collar seems to be the answer as the collar can hold the back end of the shaft from expanding. If the extreme shock end cap was installed before the bull dog collar was added, the depth of the extreme shock end cap could be 1 mm deeper which would allow the circuit board room to move. In this case, you can add a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to fill up that space.
The following Firenock will fit the 0.300" internal diameter arrows like the Tac, Black Eagle Executioner, Zombie Slayer; Firenock Aerobolt II-200, II-G, Dragon Slayer; GoldTip Laser II, Laser II Pro, Laser III; Harvest Time HS-X, Victory, and most Easton carbon crossbow shafts. Below listed the nock serving size and their ID:
Firenock V - fit serving size of 0.115" - 0.125" with 0.300" ID (In-line)
Firenock Q - fit serving size of 0.135" - 0.145" with 0.300" ID (Scorpyd, Parker)
Firenock J - fit serving size of 0.145" - 0.165" with 0.300" ID (Mission MXB except 400 which should only use Mission metal nock)
Firenock D - fit serving size of 0.155" - 0.165" with 0.298" ID (PSE-Tac)
Firenock D2 - fit serving size of 0.155" - 0.165" with 0.300" ID (Aerobolt in 26" for Tac)
It is normal to feel loose while fitting Firenock D into AeroBolt 2 as the Firenock D is designed to fit the Tac arrows which has an internal diameter of 0.298". The AeroBolt has an ID of 0.300". For those who want a better fit D nock for Aerobolt, you should use D2 which is the same D nock but is designed to fit 0.300" ID.